Edgy Glamour at India Couture Week

Designers Shantanu & Nikhil, Amit GT, and Ashima-Leena eluded glamour and royalty with their bespoke collections

Team Just Urbane

From edgy glamour to an ode to Indian weavers, day 4 of the India Couture Week had designers Shantanu & Nikhil, Amit GT and Ashima-Leena showcase their collections.

Modern maharaja

It’s usually the brides who tend to steal the spotlight with their bespoke lehenga, saris, and red carpet-ready gowns all crafted for their big day. However the menswear often plays a second fiddle, but designers Shantanu & Nikhil are out to change that with their 2021 festive ceremonial couture collection ‘Oasis’.
Like an unlikely, shimmering waterbody defying the withering heat of the Thar, Shantnu & Nikhil’s Ceremonial Couture collection stands out for its splendour and unapologetic glamour. The collection taps into the label’s signature tropes— military-inspired detailing, juxtaposed with tribal motifs. For the men, expect printed silk draped kurtas, armour-esque bandis, military-detailing festooned bandhgalas, cowl trousers, jewelled brooches and safas. 

For women, the designers blur the boundaries between ballgowns and lehengas, creating hybrid styles that will wear well anywhere from New York to New Delhi. Voluminous drapes meet expertly constructed bodices to form one-of-a-kind pieces that wouldn’t be out of place in a dark, stormy fairytale. Embellished with exquisite hand-embroideries, they shimmer with crystals, while leather appliqués lend a powerful statement to each look.
The colour palette travels from gold to navy, reds to blacks, punctuated with multicolour couture prints developed in-house and transferred onto the most luxurious fabrics. In both men’s and womenswear, look out for contrast linings that add a hint of fun, as well as the new cityscape-inspired motifs that become emblematic of the global lives we embody now.

Scintillating constellations

Amit GT Couture presented its bespoke bridal collection at the India Couture Week 2021. The collection titled ' Scintilla' attempts to depict the exultation nature celebrates through brilliant blooms, scintillating constellations, dew drops or snow falls or vivid colors of the sky. These elements are depicted through water lilies and other blooms, birds, constellations or fireworks and dew drops through signature brushstrokes like linear hand embroidery. 

The sheer scale of the trains and bustles in gowns, as well as lehengas, are far more dramatic and voluminous. Brushstroke linear embroideries which are now part of the DNA of the brand, ruffles, scrunched textures, feathers, and ingenious saree drapes, trains, and bustles are a part of the collection.

“Duchesse satin gowns with detachable trains with large bows, organza textured ball gowns, saree drape gowns had been a constant feature of my collection over the years. Rachel Weisz, Eva Longoria, Elizabeth Gillies, Toni Braxton, Avril Lavigne, and several other Hollywood stars have worn my creations.  I always believed in pushing the envelope and making a way forward in fashion and I will continue to do more with more chutzpah and vigour and ardour," says Amit GT.

Classic Royal

Leena Singh’s collection ‘’Nazm-e-Mahal’ is woven beautifully with rich textiles and magical restoration that combines delicate hand embroidery with royal authentic silhouettes worn by maharanis in palaces in Mughal era. 

The high point of this collection is its antique brocade sarees which have been sourced from the original wardrobes of the maharanis from their palaces of Rajasthan, and have been restored by our own weavers from Banaras. The subdued beautiful colours of light turquoise, light pink, light peach and vibrant purple coupled with rich heavy weaves of the beautiful antique sarees. The collection comprises classic blouses, circular lehengas, antique delicate sarees with jeweled tassels, brocade- woven odhnis with antique gold fabrics and re-interpreted lengthened jackets that can be worn with various classic silhouettes.